Primed and painted the back side of the flap brace, since it will be impossible to reach once it's riveted in place.
I spent a lot of time figuring out the proper order to do the tasks that will be involved in hanging the flaps. The problem is that, with the QB kit, several steps must be done contrary to the order suggested by the builder's manual. I have to sit down and think about the implications of every step. An example of the mental process: I can't dimple the skin and countersink the flap brace yet, because I need to drill and cleco the flap hinge in place first. However, I can't drill the flap hinge in place until I make sure the outboard end of the un-drilled flap brace is located exactly where it's going to be in relation to the pre-punched wing skin. Therefore, I have to cleco the wing skin in place. I can't cleco the wing skin in place until I remove the half-dozen blind rivets holding the adjacent skin in place, since I have to slip the outboard skin under the edge of the inboard one.
Another example: I can't drill the flap hinge in place without having the flap brace in place (naturally). The problem is, the clecos that hold the flap brace in place interfere with the fit of the flap, and I can't insert the clecoes from the back side of the spar -- there's just no way to reach in there that far. I suppose I could use a variation of Dan Checkoway's "temporary rivet" solution, but because my hinges are already riveted to the flaps, I'd have to modify that procedure somehow. After a while, I sorted it all out (in a sort of half-elegant way), and now I think I'm ready to clamp, drill, and cleco the flap and its hinge in place. I decided to install the three Cherry Max rivets that fasten the inboard end of the flap brace to the spar. This, along with some temporary pop-rivets, will hold the flap brace in place while I drill the hinge. After I drill out the pop rivets, I'll still have enough access to the flange of the flap brace so I can countersink it (and dimple the skin). Yowza. Hope it works.